January kicks off the winter season and it also is a time that the sunshine fruits-oranges, grapefruits, lemons and limes-take center stage. On a recent trip to South Florida, I was struck by the enthusiasm for these local fruits that have captured many a cook's imagination. No longer are oranges and grapefruits just being served at breakfast or eaten fresh in hand, but they now appear as added touches energizing all kinds of dishes for all kinds of meals throughout the day.

The...

