Treatment

Treatment

An increasing number of dermatology patients are looking for a way to improve the appearance of their skin. As a result, more and more products have become available to treat skin wrinkles and blemishes. From vitamins and supplements to exfoliants and chemical peels -- the options can be overwhelming. In some cases, more than one approach may be needed. This section details the risks and benefits of several products.

Antioxidant Creams, Lotions, and Ointments

Antioxidants are substances that hunt oxygen-free radicals, the unstable particles that can damage cells and are believed to cause sun damage and even skin cancers. Exposure to sunlight depletes antioxidants in the skin, and therefore they must be replaced.

Antioxidant ointments, creams, and lotions ("topical products") may help reduce the risk of wrinkles and protect against sun damage. Unlike sunscreens, they build up in the skin and are not washed away, so the protection may last. Selenium, coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10), and alpha-lipoic acid are types of antioxidants that come in topical form. Many are proving to be very beneficial for the skin.

Vitamin A. Vitamin A is important for skin health. UV radiation produces vitamin A deficiencies in the skin. Topical products containing natural forms of vitamin A (retinol, retinaldehyde) or vitamin A-related products called retinoids (tretinoin, tazarotene) may help repair skin damage due to sunburn and natural aging.

• Tretinoin (Retin-A). Tretinoin (known commercially as Retin-A) is the only topical agent approved for treating photoaging and is available in prescription form (Avita, Renova, Differin). The June 2004 journal Dermatology Surgery reported that tretinoin (0.25% concentration) was an effective and well-tolerated treatment for photodamaged facial skin. This agent produces a rosy glow and reduces fine and large wrinkles, liver spots, and surface roughness. It also may help prevent more serious effects of ultraviolet radiation. Tretinoin may be applied to face, neck, chest, hands, and forearms and should be applied at least twice a week. Noticeable improvement takes 2 - 6 months. Because Retin-A increases a person's sensitivity to the sun, patients should apply just a tiny amount at bedtime. A sunblock should be worn during the day, and overexposure to the sun should be avoided. Almost all patients experience redness, scaling, burning, and itching after 2 or 3 days that can last up to 3 months. In women who experience irritation, a daytime moisturizer or low-dose corticosteroid cream, such as 1% hydrocortisone, may help. There is some concern that overuse of high-dose tretinoin may cause excessive skin thinness over time. Studies now suggest that low concentrations (as low as .02%) of tretinoin can produce significant improvements in wrinkles and skin color, with less irritation than at higher doses.
• Retinol. Retinol, a natural form of vitamin A, could not, until recently, be used in skin products because it was unstable and easily broken down by UV radiation. Stable preparations are now sold over the counter. In the right concentrations, retinol may be as effective as tretinoin, and studies indicate that it has fewer side effects. An animal study suggests that adding antioxidant creams (such as those containing vitamins C or E) may offer added protection against degradation of retinol, but not tretinoin. The FDA warns that over-the-counter retinol skin products are unregulated. The amount of active ingredients is unknown, and some preparations, in fact, may contain almost no retinol.
• Tazarotene. Tazarotene (Tazorac, Zorac, Avage) is a retinoid used for acne and psoriasis. It has now been approved for treating wrinkles, skin discoloration, and blemishes due to photoaging. One short-term study suggested that it may be as effective as tretinoin and even slightly better at high doses. At such high doses, however, it can cause very severe irritation. Redness and peeling may be reduced by administering tretinoin first to get the skin acclimated. A randomized study of 562 patients with facial photodamage found that a daily application of tazarotene 0.1% cream resulted in a minimum 1 grade improvement in fine and coarse wrinkling, uneven skin color, pore size, skin roughness, and overall photodamage. More research is needed to determine if it produces any long-lasting significant benefits.