Treatment

Warning: Pregnant women and those who may become pregnant should avoid any vitamin A derivative (a product related to vitamin A). For example, oral tretinoin causes birth defects, and women should avoid even topical Retin-A when pregnant or trying to conceive.

Vitamin C. Vitamin C, or ascorbic acid, is a very potent antioxidant. Most studies on the effects of antioxidants on the skin have used this vitamin. In laboratory studies, large amounts of vitamin C reduced skin swelling and protected immune factors from sunlight. It may even promote collagen production. Vitamin C by itself is unstable, but products that solve the delivery problem are now available (e.g., Cellex-C, Avon's Anew Formula C Treatment Capsules, Physician Elite, and others). Studies using these formations in 2002 (one using Cellex-C) reported reduction in wrinkles and apparent improvement in skin thickness. In one of the studies, wrinkle improvement with a time-released vitamin C product was as effective as with topical retinoids and some laser treatments. Of concern, however, is that ascorbyl palmitate, a vitamin C derivative found in many skin products, may actually increase skin damage from UV rays, according to one 2002 study. More research is needed, since other studies have found this chemical to be protective.

Antioxidants Under Investigation for Skin Care. Other antioxidants are also being investigated for their value in skin protection. Most available brands, however, contain very low concentrations of these antioxidants. In addition, they are also not well absorbed and have a short-term effect. New delivery techniques, however, may prove to offset some of these problems.

• Vitamin E. Studies suggest that topical vitamin E, particularly alpha tocopherol cream (a form of vitamin E), decreased skin roughness, length of facial lines, and wrinkle depth. Studies on mice have also reported reductions in UV-induced skin cancer with its use.
• Both green and black tea may provide some protection against skin cancers and photoaging. There is also some evidence that pomegranate and soy extracts may help rejuvenate aging skin.
• Aloe, ginger, grape seed extract, and coral extracts contain antioxidants and are promoted as being healthy for the skin, although evidence of their effects on wrinkles is weak.