Treatment

Acid concentrations in over-the-counter AHA preparations are 2 - 10%. One clinical study suggested that 8% concentrations showed modest improvement. Some examples include Avon's Anew Intensive Treatment (8% glycolic), Pond's Age Defying Complex (8%), Elizabeth Arden's Alpha-Ceramid Intensive Skin Treatment (3 - 7.5%), and BioMedic's home product (10%). Prescription strength creams contain at least 12% glycolic acid, and glycolic acid peels of 30 - 70% concentration may be administered in a doctor's office at weekly or monthly intervals.

Response to AHA varies, and the treatment is not without risk, particularly in high-concentration products. Side effects from over-the-counter creams, prescription products, and professional AHA peels can include burns, itching, pain, and possibly scarring. Studies also suggest that AHA may increase susceptibility to sun damage, even at concentrations as low as 4%. Such effects can persist up to a week after the products have been stopped. Experts advise that people should purchase products with AHA concentrations of 10% or less. Chemical peels of up to 60% are available without prescription on the Internet. Such concentrations are not recommended except in consultation with a doctor. If any adverse effects occur, the product should be stopped immediately. In all cases, people are advised to avoid sunlight or use proper sun protection when using these products.

Other Skin Treatments

Copper Peptides. Certain copper-containing compounds may protect skin and help repair it. Note: copper itself is a toxic metal. It should be used only in products that contain peptides (small protein fragments) that bind to copper. Most studies have been conducted on the copper peptide glycyl-l-histidyl-l-lysine:copper (II) or GHK-Cu. It is currently used in a number of products (e.g., CP Serum, Neutrogena's Visibly Firm, ProCyte's Neova).

Furfuryladenine. Furfuryladenine (Kinetin, Kinerase) is a naturally occurring growth hormone found in plant and animal DNA. It has antioxidant and anti-aging properties. Some small laboratory studies suggest that it may both delay the onset and decrease the effects of aging on skin. However, no well-conducted human trials have been performed.